The only guarantees in life are death and taxes. People often ask me about puppies and choosing puppies as working prospects - and that is what they are - merely prospects. I could never guarantee that a particular puppy would take one to the Nationals. There are so many factors to consider, most notably, bloodlines, good health, environment in which the puppy is raised, the puppy's natural instincts, the ability of the handler and the helper, etc... No one can guarantee a podium dog from the onset of puppyhood. I do not believe in tempermant testing of a puppy as an accurate prediction of one's future performance. I have seen "turd" puppies develop into awesome working dogs as well as awesome looking puppies that end up merely as pets. I do my best to select each puppy based upon daily interactions and observations and frequent testing.

The best thing to do if considering purchasing a puppy, meaning - take that chance, is to "stack the deck" in your favor. Determine what it is you want to do with the dog, research pedigrees and bloodlines that would fullfill your goals, talk to knowledgeable people about the lines (actual hands on information as opposed to internet gossip), and be realistic about your own abilities, life situations and that of your training club. Find a breeder with whom you feel comfortable, not only during the purchasing phase but for many years down the road. One who will offer a lifetime of support outside of a health guarantee.

People also inquire about choosing puppies and choosing puppies as opposed to adult dogs. Obviously, with adult dogs, what you see is what you get. With puppies, one must understand that it is much like opting in on the first day of an IPO in the Stock Market. You invest a small sum of money banking on the hopes of great returns in the years to come. If you are wise, you do your homework and research, making an educated decision. But just like an IPO, a puppy is a gamble. And like an IPO, you have your ups and downs. After all, just as in you and me, puppies are all unique individuals - not a perfect one out there.

Think about it for a moment - of what you expect. First, all teeth must come in and the ears must stand. Along the way, that puppy must develop proper form for function with good hips and elbows. Apart from structure, the puppy must have and continue to develop great temerament, drives and suitability to do the work. Then you must have a good place to train and add to that, your own abilities to train. Any great stumbles along that path and you compromise your success for both you and your dog.

I'm not advocating that one should only consider purchasing adult dogs. There is much merit to bringing home that new puppy, shaping and molding its future, brining you much join in training it yourself knowing full well that all the mistakes are that of your own as well as the successes. Rearing a puppy through adult can bring much reward to you and your family. I'm asking that you make an informed decision because like anyone else, I want all puppies to be successful and suitable for the chosen endeavor of its owner. That guarantees a happy and well cared for puppy into adulthood with a forever home.

From time to time I am asked about the nutritional health needs of our shepherds. Since Karla and I began feeding a raw diet to our own dogs, I am amazed at the dramatic improvements in coat condition, muscle tone, energy level and enduance, as well as overall health. Although there are many different theories all over the internet on feeding raw, we identify with that of the "prey model" - what a canine would eat before the advent of ovens and kibble. A dog in the wild would feed on whole raw prey, or scavenge on parts. So what is it exactly we feed out dogs?

Each dog receives the follow (2 to 4% of optimum body weight):
75% RMB (raw meaty bones)
25% Green Tripe
Grizzly Salmon Oil (1 sqt.)
Dogzyme Digestive Enhancer (1 tsp)
Icelandic Sea Blend (Kelp - 1 tbsp)

With RMB's, we rotate between raw chicken quarters, chicken necks and wings. Periodically (once or twice a week) we add a small amount (one tablespoon) of a ground veggie mush and organ meat. Also, we like to add an organic free range raw egg (crushed shell included) several times a week to their meals. As a general rule, we do not mix muscle meats and organs of different prey. Some meals consist soley of 100% green tripe. Its not rocket science and it doesn't have to be difficult, the key to proper nutrition is variety.

What about supplements?
Some say that with a raw diet, supplements are not necessary and to each his own. With the advent of fertilizers, pesticides, antibiotics, grain fed as opposed to free range and such, we feel that meat available today is subpar to those of yesterday and thus we add supplements to most meals.

A word about pre-mixed commercially available raw food...
Several companies offer pre-mixed commercially available raw food for canines in the frozen or dehydrated form. For those that would prefer feeding a pre-mixed commercially available raw diet, we feel that doing so is better than the alternative. If creating your own meals for your canines is too difficult or time consuming, then by all means purchase the premade mixes.

What about Kibble?
Although we feed a raw diet, we still maintain a kibble in their diet for those times that feeding a raw diet is not practical. The kibble that we feed and recommend is Royal Canin GSD 24. We usually feed kibble twice a week and we never mix raw with kibble in the same feeding.

One last word...
Remember, your canine can not communicate with you as to what he needs, you must look at his overall condition - teeth, eyes, coat, stool, and overall energy level to know that your canine's nutritional needs are being met. Do your homework and do what you feel is best.

One more thing...
To locate the products mentioned here within, I've included the following links:

Grizzly Salmon Oil

Dogyzme Digestive Enhancer

Icelandic Sea Blend